Suspension Sets

BUSHED

Suspensions come in all shapes, sizes and configurations. In order to set up the suspension in the correct way, the frame or the sub-frame, should be separated from the vehicle. The idea is to simply allow removal of the body mount ‘biscuits’ found on many vintage machines. Over time these components become weak from abuse at the hands of power crazed maniacs. These actions take their toll on the particular parts concerned. In short they are almost always worn out. The idea is to take the squirm out of these mounts.

In an effort to make the sub-frame / body package more integral, we strongly recommend that the rubber/steel body mounts be replaced with a set of aluminum bushings that can be machined from scratch.

The original mounts are a compromise between ride, road noise and handling. When pushed to the limit, the rubber mounts deflect. While deflecting or moving under load, such as in extreme accelerating, cornering in a highly modified muscle car or the seriousness of dragster racing x-treme acceleration forces, a considerable amount of energy is wasted compressing or stretching the body mount. The suspension has to work harder to keep up with the deflections of centrifugal forces etc and starting line capabilities are compromised.

The ride characteristics of such a solidly bushed system are noticeably harsher and road noise is transmitted rather quickly to the cockpit, but with a full house V8 mother of a motor under the bonnet, such problems could be considered trivial.

WISHBONE ANIMATED

In most muscle car applications, there is no need to replace standard factory control arms with aftermarket equipment. Most original manufacturer designs are considered almost perfect, are considered to be lightweight, possess the correct geometry and are readily available at scrapyards, salvageyards and vehicle dismantler yards. If you can’t find them call “PART FIND” – “LOOKING4SPARES” on 0861 77 77 22 (call centre).

Clean the control arms with degreaser and inspect them thoroughly for any visible cracks any sight damage that could have been sustained on its journies. If you suspect the control arm for any defect, replace it immediately. The original ball joints should also be sussed out carefully. If you suspect them for any ware or damage, you can replace them with TRW or similar quality aftermarket components.

During the time of the rebuild, examine all the control arm bushings and replace them with quality bushings. It must be pointed out that bushings must be replaced by a wheel alignment shop prior to painting any component on the car or truck. (This is, so not to scratch or chip the new paint). Simply take the time to mask off the various non-painted areas and blow the ‘wishbone’ control arm.

TIGHTLY COILED

There is one area where drag racing technology becomes an asset for hi-performance street performance is the front coil springs. Marked ‘for drag race use only’, aftermarket springs such as the Moroso assemblies can find a home in specialized, limited use street applications. These springs feature added coils, a longer overall length and slightly thinner than stock diameter spring. This allows the springs to store energy within themselves. While at a stand still, the car remains level (or in some cases, has a slightly forward rake), but when the throttle is mashed to the floorboard, the nose of the car will rise rapidly. While accelerating through the transmission gears, the springs settle down rapidly, hanging down the nose of the race car to a more aero dynamic profile.

Remember the ‘lightweight’ springs allow the nose of the car to rise rapidly. As a result, weight is quickly transferred to the rear of the car where it will do the most good in terms of drag strip runs. These springs are essential to shaving a tenth off quarter mile times.

WEIGHT WATCHERS

There are two distinct methods to gain performance and that boils down to, ‘add more horsepower’ or begin removing some weight off the beast. Sometimes adding horsepower is a whole lot easier than having to find ways of discarding weight from the vehicle, especially if you are dealing with a made-in-Detroit chunk-o-iron. So just how much can be gained by shedding kilos-and-pounds? For the pure sake of comparison, let’s assume the cars a relatively healthy streetcar. Normally aspirated engined power the jam runs 11.08s at 111 mph. The car is a typical streetcar so it’s no flyweight and tips the Toledo’s at 3850 pounds with you in it. A quick power speed calculation reveals that the engine produces approximately 405 hp (net), which in turn, produces the 11-second passes.

If you can shed enough weight off the car /truck, like loosing between 300 to 350 pounds, how much faster will it be? Using the same HP numbers, but at a weight of 3450 pounds, the elimination times crumble to an 11.44 at a speed of 116+ mph. To match that elimination time number by adding the horses to the mill, you’ll have to find at least 40 to 50 more ponies. In some cases, it really isn’t possible – especially if the car is already on the ragged edge of “streetability.”
Naturally, the parts swap or component removal process on a single purpose drag race car is a relatively easy task. On the other hand, a street/strip car is another whole ball game altogether. Drag strip racecars don’t need the normal every day car charging systems – but streetcars do. Most racecars don’t need steel hefty bumpers – street strip cars do. Racecars don’t need the passenger seat – road cars do. The list goes on and on and on…. But there are more clever ways to remove the weight from any intended race or street strip car without sacrificing a street racecar. Living in Africa always has its advantages and in this place we can get away with almost anything. Here’s how the numbers slowly stack up:

FIBERGLASS BONNET – Total Reduction: 45+ Pounds
FIBREGLASS FRONT BUMPER – Total Reduction: 15+ Pounds
ALUMINUM CYLINDER HEADS – Total Reduction: 75+ Pounds
ALUMINUM INTAKE MANIFOLD – Total Reduction: 20+ Pounds
ALUMINUM WATER PUMP – Total Reduction: 10+ Pounds
ALUMINUM RADIATORS – Total Reduction: 25+ Pounds
HEATER DELETE SYSTEM – Total Reduction: 20+ Pound
PAINT & BODY – Total Reduction 25+ Pounds
UNDERCOATING – Total Reduction: 25+ Pounds
FRONT STABILIZER BAR ASSEMBLY – Total Reduction: 15+ Pounds
SPARE TYRE & JACK – Total Reduction: 25+ Pounds

Total Weight Reduction: 300+ Pounds

There is one warning to the writing noted above and that is the “light is right” situation. Certain cars happen to work better with some added luggage in the boot of the car. Some cars/trucks work better with 50, 100 or more pounds of ballast on the back or in the boot. This is a process of elimination of experimentation – try your car without ballast, add some weight and keep on adding the weight until the car slows down. You be the judge.

Conversions Chart

When it comes to building horsepower one thing every racer has to use at one stage or other is a conversion chart at some time or other.

Multiply         x     by             =     to get        x     by            =     to get

Horsepower     x     0.746        =     kilowatts     x     1.34         =     horsepower

Inches             x     25.4         =     mm            x     0.03937    =     inches

Inches           x     2.54         =     cm             x     0.3937      =     inches

Miles                x     1.6093     =     km             x     0.6214      =     miles

Foot lbs      x     1.3558     =     (Nm)          x     0.7376      =     foot lbs

Mp/h                x     1.6093     =     km/h          x     0.6214      =     Mp/h

degree C         x     0.556     (F-32)                 x     degree F    =     (1.8C) +32

Cubic Centimetres
¶r2     x     distance     =     volume x cylinders